|Day 1||Colostrum||4-6 oz.||4 times a day|
|Day 2||Colostrum||5-7 oz.||4 times a day|
|Day 3||Milk Replacer||6-8 oz.||4 times a day|
|Day 4-9||Milk Replacer||9-11 oz.||4 times a day|
|Day 10-20||Milk Replacer||15 oz.||3 times a day|
|Day 21- Weaning||Milk Replacer||20 oz.||3 times a day|
Pygmy Goat Kid Feeding Chart
|Day 1||Colostrum||2-3 oz.||4 times a day|
|Day 2||Colostrum||3-4 oz.||4 times a day|
|Day 3-9||Milk Replacer||4-5 oz.||4 times a day|
|Day 10-20||Milk Replacer||5-6 oz.||3 times a day|
|Day 21- Weaning||Milk Replacer||7-8 oz.||3 times a day|
***Please keep in mind, the above charts are for reference only. Different size and gender kids will eat different amounts. Depending on the size and growth potential of the kid you are feeding you may need to adjust the above amounts accordingly. If diarrhea occurs as a result of over feeding, decrease the amount of milk you are feeding until diarrhea has stopped.
***Colostrum is mothers first milk. Colostrum needs to be fed the first 2 days after birth because it contains antibodies, sugars, fats, and vitamins essential to insure that kids get off to a healthy start. You can buy powdered colostrum or if you have a doe that is a heavy milker, put some in a container and freeze it for future use. If the doe has died shortly after giving birth, milk the colostrum from her to use for the orphan kids.
Sometimes it is difficult to get kids started on a bottle. The younger the kid, the easier it is to get them started on a bottle. Kids are ready to eat when you put your finger in their mouth and they begin to suck it. Cover their eyes with your one hand and put the nipple in their mouth with your other hand. Covering their eyes simulates the natural darkness that they experience while standing under their mother and often times when the eyes are covered, they readily accept the bottle. After they have been on a bottle for a few days, they will accept it without having to cover their eyes.
Kids will cry when they are hungry and stop sucking when they are full, don't force them to eat. Between day 21 and weaning age, kids will seem to want more milk than you are feeding them. Do not feed them more milk during this time. Your goal at this time is to leave the kid feeling somewhat hungry so they will begin to eat hay, grass, and grain. The goal you are working towards is gradually weaning them so they will be solely dependent on hay, grass, grain, and water, filling them up on milk will hinder this process. Weaning age is between 8 and 10 weeks of age. It is best to wean kids gradually. For example, instead of feeding 3 times a day go to 2 times a day, then 1 time a day, until they are weaned from the bottle. You can also fill the bottle with water while you are weaning them and then stop the bottle all together.
Weak Kids & Tube Feeding:
Selecting a fence that best suites your needs and the needs of your livestock is one of the single most important decisions that you will have to make for your herd. Keep in mind when you are selecting a type of fence, not only will you be trying to keep your goats in but you will also have to consider what types of predators are in your area and how to keep them out. Afterall, the welfare of your goats depends on your decision and how you protect them. The small investment that you make in a fence is protecting the large investment that you have in your livestock, dont select a fence just because it is cheap, think about how effective it will be.
Woven wire fences are not a good idea if your goats have horns. Often times goats with horns or collars will get caught in the woven wire fence and the results can sometimes be fatal. If using woven wire fence, it is recommended that you have electric fence ran on the outside and inside of the woven wire to keep goats from getting caught in it and predators away from the fence.
Wooden fences often leads to goats finding a way out and are generally not a good idea for mischievous goats. Dont select a fence that a predator can easily climb over or have anything setting close to the perimeter of the fence that will allow a predator easy access.
For our fencing we selected 6 strands of electric fence placed close together on metal T-posts. If you are using an electric fence, make sure you buy a heavy duty fencer that will produce plenty of punch when something gets close to it. There is also a handy little tool that you can purchase at Tractor Supply Store for around $20. It is a light that hangs on the electric fence wire and flashes if the fence is not working properly. It is well worth the money to alert you when something isnt working right. Be sure to select a fence that is high enough so nothing can jump over the fence. If you are still concerned about predators, you can also place a radio in the barn and leave it on all the time. Wild animals will not come to the sound of human voices.
There are many things to consider when selecting a goat. First you have to decide if you are looking to purchase a show goat, breeding stock, or pet.
When selecting a show goat, here are a few things you may want to look for: *straight back *check to see if the goat stands flat on its feet with legs straight underneth it *select a goat that will meet the size requirements for the class you are wanting to participate in *consider the parents and genetic characteristics of the goat *look for lenght and meat content *don't select a show animal soley based on color.
If you are selecting breeding stock you will want to consider: *age of the goat-select a goat that is young enough to give you many years of production *udders in does (in my experience the number of teats does not affect the ability to raise health kids) look for does that have high milk production and do not have a fat or flattened teat that young kids will be unable to suck *also look for teats that leak, if the teat is leaking, valuable feed for the young kids is being wasted *don't buy a doe that has mastitis (we haven't ever had a case of mastitis in our herd) *don't buy breeding stock from an auction (most animals with problems go to an auction, and if they don't have problems, they are exposed to other animals with problems and diseases at an auction house) *look at musceling and genetic traits *one myth is that a goat that is natural polled is not fertal, in my experience, I have several natural polled goats and they are some of the most fertal animals I own producing twins and triplets every 7-8 months *select a buck that has two testicals, it has been known to happen that some are born with only one greatly decreasing their breeding ability *select a buck that shows interest in the does, most good bucks will show an interest at a very early age *when breeding a doe or buck be sure if the first results are disappointing, give them a second chance and breed them again, often times the second time will produce better results.
If you are selecting a pet, choose a goat that has a personality suitable to you and one that you are able to maintain and properly care for.
Do - Select a goat that has a straight back and is square on its feet with a nice overall appearance.
Do - Select a goat that has good muscle tone and condition. A good foundation will make it easier to build on.
Do - Select a goat that is dehorned or disbudded. Most shows are now requiring animals to be dehorned for show and you don't want to purchase a goat and find out later that the rules have been changed and your goat is ineligible for show.
Do - Make sure that the breeder is enrolled in the State Scrapie Tag Program. Shows are now requiring most show animals to be Scrapie Tagged regardless if they are tattooed or registered. Even though the State program does not require animals to be tagged if they are tattooed or permanently identified, or registered from the farm they were born, or if it is a castrated male, individual shows are requiring them to be tagged for show. You don't want to purchase a goat and not be able to show it because you can not get a tag for it.
Do - If your show goat is dehorned or disbudded, sometimes a Scur will appear. Scurs are small pieces of horn that will continue to grow even though the animal has been dehorned. Feel the scur to see if it is attached to the skull of the animal or if it will move freely under the skin. If the scur moves, remove the scur with a pair of pliers by twisting it off as soon as the growth is noticed (this should be done to a scur less than 1/2"). If the scur is larger than 1/2" or attached, it can be cut back with a pair of side cutters, the area will bleed and should be sprayed with Furall and also the animal should be given antibiotics as a preventative measure to protect against infection. Scurs are very noticeable in the show ring when the animal is clipped and makes for an unsightly appearance.
Do - Clip your goats entire body for show and square up the tail.
Do - Before showing your goat, have several of your friends or other family members feed and pet your goat so it will get used to being handled by someone other than you. This will prevent goats that act wild in the show ring.
Do - Exercise your goat above its normal daily activity. Some people do this by having a herd dog chase the goat in a round pen with the dog on the outside of the pen. Some kids will teach their goats to run along beside their bikes while they are riding. Anything extra will help build muscle.
Do - Work with the animal prior to the show. Practice setting up the animal and squaring up the legs. Legs should not be placed to far in front or behind the animal but should be straight and square under the animals body. Practice leading the goat and making it go where you want it to, not where it wants to go.
Do - About one month before the show start adding a little bit of corn or some extra protein to the animals diet. This will put a nice thin layer of fat over the muscle that can be seen but not felt and it will finish the animal nicely in time for show. Change the diet very gradually to prevent upsetting the rumen.
Do - Keep good eye contact with the judge and pay attention.
Do - Keep the animal set up at all times even if you have already been placed in the category. Sometimes judges will change their minds about the placement of animals and you could still move up in the category.
Don't - Use a lead in the show ring. Using a lead does not allow you to have complete control over the animal. Use a show collar.
Don't - Clip your goat too short. Leave a little bit of hair so that the skin is covered. A little lenght to the hair will make the animal appear to have more depth and definition.
Don't - Pen up the goat prior to show. Animals that are restricted will loose muscle tone which will be replaced by fat. Animals need exercise to produce muscle. Limited exercise will lead to underdeveloped muscles and a poorly conditioned goat.
Don't - Step overtop of the animal in the show ring. Don't lay your hands on the animal other than to set it up.